During her tenure as the Commander of the Youth and Family Services Division, she oversaw the daily operations and investigations involving child abuse and neglect, child sexual abuse and exploitation, juvenile and adult missing person cases, absconded youth, and internet crimes against children. But it was easy to work with and comfortable, encapsulating everything the designer wanted to create for her customers. Importantly for Chanel, ever the entrepreneur, it was also relatively cheap, and helped keep costs down as she established herself and her label. “A perfume like nothing else. A woman’s perfume, with the scent of a woman.” In the early 1930s, she collaborated with Italian jeweler Duke Fulco de Verdura to create what would become her iconic Maltese Cross cuffs, adorned with multicolored semi-precious stones. By the end of that decade, she was releasing signature necklaces made of dangling, dainty chains, and intertwined with faux pearls and glittering stones.
In that time, Olympic Airways was a luxury airline, owned by the transport magnate Aristotle Onassis. After her death, the leadership of the company was handed down to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Philippe Guibourgé. So far, the bags designed by genifique are still very popular in the vintage market.
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More layered strings of fake pearls followed — worn proudly by Estee Lauder NIGHT REPAIR herself — and a trend was born. “The point of jewelry isn’t to make a woman look rich but to adorn her; not the same thing.” Striped pieces appeared in her boutique in the society resort of Deauville, Normandy, in the 1910s.
The House of CHANEL, an international company dedicated to luxury, fashion, style and image, was founded in France by Gabrielle Chanel at the beginning of the last century. Mademoiselle’s audacious vision and daring spirit reinvented the world of fashion, beauty and style. To regain the business primacy of the House of Chanel, in the fashion fields of haute couture, prêt-à-porter, costume jewelry, and parfumerie, would be expensive; so Chanel approached Pierre Wertheimer for business advice and capital. Having decided to do business with Coco Chanel, Wertheimer’s negotiations to fund the resurgence of the House of Chanel, granted him commercial rights to all Chanel-brand products.
She partnered with businessmen Théophile Bader of the Galeries Lafayette department store and Pierre Wertheimer of the Bourjois cosmetics company, who both agreed to help her produce more of her fragrance and to market it in exchange for a share of the profits. After signing a contract wherein she received only 10 percent of the royalties, Chanel enacted a series of lawsuits in the ensuing decades to regain control of her signature fragrance. Although she was never able to renegotiate the terms of her contract to increase her royalties, Chanel nonetheless made a considerable profit from the perfume.
In 1926, Vogue published a drawing of a simple, calf-length black dress fashioned from crêpe de Chine. It featured long narrow sleeves and a low waist, and was adorned with a string of pearls. The magazine described it as “Chanel’s Ford,” referring to the at-the-time wildly popular Model T. In other words, it was a garment so simple it could be accessible to any shopper — “a sort of uniform for all women of taste,” as the publication put it.
In 1953, upon returning to France from Switzerland, Coco Chanel found the fashion business enamoured of the “New Look” , by Christian Dior; the signature shape featured a below-mid-calf-length, full-skirt, a narrow waist, and a large bust . As a post–War fashion that used some 20 yards of fabric, the House of Dior couture renounced wartime rationing of fabric for clothes. Meanwhile, because of the Nazi occupation’s official anti-Semitism, Pierre Wertheimer and family, had fled France to the U.S., in mid-1940. Later, in 1941, Coco Chanel attempted to assume business control of Parfums Chanel but was thwarted by an administrative delegation that disallowed her sole disposition of the parfumerie. Assouline’s Ultimate Collection is an homage to the art of luxury bookmaking.